[ Key Attractions ] [ Further Distractions ]
The Souks
The medina of Fès el-Bali in the old town hasn’t changed much for centuries. In the labyrinthine streets you’ll find stalls selling everything from goats’ heads to slippers and spices, as well as wonderful examples of Hispano-Arabic architecture and opportunities to see traditional craftspeople at work.
Fondouk el-Nejjarine (Museum of Wooden Arts and Crafts)
A Fes landmark, the exquisitely restored former caravanserai which once provided food and shelter to traders is now the Museum of Wooden Arts and Crafts. Inside visitors will be able to examine close up the most intricate carvings. Outside, in the pretty place el-Nejjarine (Carpenters’ Square) is the Nejjarine Fountain, best known of the medina’s mosaic fountains, and in the alleys that lead off the square is the Nejjarine Souk, where carpenters still chisel and carve cedar wood.
Place el-Nejjarine
Tel: 055 740 580.
Admission charge.
Medersa Bou Inania
A must-see site, the medersa or theological college is one of the few Islamic religious buildings open to non Muslims. Constructed between 1350-7 by the Merenid sultan Bou Inan, it is considered the finest and most lavishly decorated medersa built by the Merenids and the only one in Morocco with a minbar (pulpit) and a minaret. Closed during prayer times. (Some parts may be inaccessible due to restoration work.)
Rue Talaa Kebira
Admission charge.
Dar Batha Museum
Extensive collection of historical treasures showcasing Moroccan arts and crafts: fine embroidery, leatherwork, carpets and jewellery, woodcarving, ceramics, all housed in a century old Moorish palace. Guided tour obligatory. The museum’s Andalusian garden is a tranquil retreat from the bustle of the medina.
Place du Batha
Tel: 055 634 116.
Admission charge.
The TanneriesA Fes institution little changed for six centuries, the pungent tanneries or Chouara is the most extraordinary sight in the medina. Swarms of leather workers pound animal hides with their feet or dip skins into honeycombed huge stone vats of pigment, their bare legs stained by dyes. The tanners’ yard can be best seen from the surrounding terrace rooftops, such as Terrasse de Tannerie, a shop selling leather goods, accessible from a staircase leading up from Derb Chouara in the medina. (It is expected that you will at least look around the shop afterwards, and if nothing is bought a tip to the shop owner is appreciated). This is not a place to be downwind on a hot afternoon when the stench of pigeon dung (used as part of the curing process) can be unpleasantly strong.
Bab Debbagh (Tannery Gate)
North of place el-Seffarine
Opening time: Daily 0900 to 1800.
Free admission.
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Kairaouine Mosque
Non-Muslims may not enter this huge mosque, in the heart of Fes El-Bali but often the doors stand open and it is possible to take a discreet look inside. Established in 857, the Kairaouine Mosque is one of the oldest in the western Muslim world.
Rue Bou Touil
Tel: 055 641 016.
Medersa el Attarin
Founded in 1325, this medersa in the heart of the medina has wondrous decorative detail and is, after the Bou Inania, the most impressive of the medieval Muslim colleges. One of the best views of the Kairaouine Mosque is from the roof of the Medersa el Attarin if you can persuade the caretaker to give you access.
Opposite the Kairaouine Mosque
Tel: 055 623 460.
Hammams
The traditional hammam or bathhouse, is a place to socialise as well as be scrubbed and massaged after pounding the alleys of the medina. Information about hammams is available at www.fesmedina.com/features/hammam.htm. Through the Bab Bou Jeloud gate at the top of Talaa Seghira, Hammam Mernisi is considered a superior, foreigner-friendly one. There are different hours for men and women. The Hammam Bourous, rue ech Cherabliyin, is the oldest still in use in Fes (men only). Less adventurous travellers staying in smart hotels may prefer to use the on-site facilities.
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